Dear Maintenance Men

Dear Maintenance Men | September 21, 2009

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Dear Maintenance Men:
I am a new maintenance tech and I have just been hired at a large apartment complex. I am not the only maintenance tech, so, I want to stand out to my supervisors. I don’t want to be low man on the totem pole for long. What do you suggest I do to be noticed as an outstanding maintenance technician?
Tomas


Dear Tomas:
Ninety percent of a job is showing up! Of course that is not enough, so here are a few suggestions. After showing up on time every day, make sure you are presentable everyday. Low man on the totem pole often gets the worse jobs; don’t complain, do them, do them fast and do them right and let your supervisor know when you are done.

The phrase “It’s not my job” does not exist in your vocabulary! While walking around the property and you see trash in the bushes: stop and pick it up every time. If you have special skills, don’t keep them a secret. Always be polite to the residents, even if they are not. Keep your jobsite clean. If you have to leave a resident’s unit to get parts, clean up before you go. Never leave a unit with the resident wondering if you will ever come back to finish that job. Communicate with both the resident and your supervisor.

This will cut down on complaints from both sides. Do not eat, drink, smoke or socialize with a resident, they are not your friends. Your job depends on it. Lastly, take your job seriously, put your heart and soul into the job, it will be noticed and you won’t be low man on the totem pole for long.

Dear Maintenance Men | November 3, 2009

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Dear Apartment Owners:
We are getting close to the holidays, which mean more people at your apartment buildings. Chances are some of those residents will be inviting guests for dinner over the coming holidays. For some of these residents, this will be the first time this year they will turn on the oven! What are the odds you are just starting your own dinner or you are sitting down with your own guests when an emergency call comes to you on Thanksgiving Day from one of your residents.

That call might be about a clogged sink or non-working oven with an apartment full of guests waiting for dinner. This scenario can ruin both your and your residents’ holiday. The answer is: Preventive Maintenance. Remember, the holiday season starts with Halloween and the demand on your properties only gets worse from there. Check each stove and oven for proper operation, many residents only turn on their ovens at this time of year, and the problem may be as simple as a pilot light being out.

Also, check the oven’s temperature calibration with an oven thermometer. This time of year sees a higher than normal use of the plumbing. It may be a good idea to snake out or hydro jet your main plumbing lines. Also, sending a note to each tenant on the proper use of the garbage disposal will be useful. Note what they should and should not put down the disposal unit.

A few items to include on this No-No list are: banana peels, potato skins, coffee grounds and any stringy food. Also make sure they turn on the water before using the disposal and put down small amounts of food at a time. Instruct your residents to not use the disposal as a trash can and then turn it on when full, it will clog. Christmas and other holidays also mean more people than usual walking on your property.

Is your property safe? What are some of the liabilities to worry about? Check trip and fall hazards. Do you have sprinkler heads sticking up above the grass or landscape near sidewalks? Use pop-up heads to solve this problem. Look for sidewalks that have been pushed up by tree roots. This can be solved with a concrete grinder or replacement of the section and removal of the tree root.

Cut any low hanging tree branches and look for branches that may break in heavy winter wind or rain. Check your decking for cracks or damage and inspect the exterior stairways for wear and tear. Inspect all your garage door springs, winter wind and rain may make them heavy causing the door to close or fall unexpectedly. As a precaution, always replace both garage springs at the same time and throw away any used springs. Never install used garage springs. Check all property lighting and timers.

Remember: Preventive Maintenance is cheaper than Emergency Maintenance!


Dear Maintenance Men | November 3, 2009

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Dear Maintenance Men:
I have an older 100 gallon water heater. The burner is rated at 79000 BTUs. The tank gets regular maintenance and we clean out the calcium in the bottom of the tank at least once a year. Currently the water heater will not stay on for longer than five minutes at a time.

My tenants are not happy, but I also don’t want to buy a new heater. What do you think the problem is or do I need to replace the tank?
Jerry


Dear Jerry:
We understand your reluctance to replace a seemingly good water heater just because it no longer heats up the water. A new water heater is very expensive. I think we can help you. First let’s start with the basics; Check that the pilot light is on. Also check for spider webs around the gas orifice leading to the burner assembly. The gas orifice is located under the tank at the air gap in the pipe. If the pilot light is on, chances are the thermocouple is good.

Since the thermocouple is very cheap, we would replace it regardless of the pilot light’s condition. The thermocouple is the copper tube running from the gas control valve to the burner assembly. The thermocouple senses the pilot light flame and when defective it will fail-safe to off and shut down the gas valve. If after replacing the thermocouple the problem persists, replace the gas control valve located on the outside of the tank.

Note the model and serial numbers and a replacement should be found at most plumbing supply houses. The replacement procedure is fairly straight forward. Turn off the gas, turn off the water, and remove the pilot and gas supply lines and the thermocouple from the gas control valve. Now the fun part . . . that control valve has been on the tank a long time and could be tight. Use a pipe wrench to gently twist out the valve.

Use Teflon tape on the threads of the new control valve and install. If you are doing this for the first time, drain the tank of water. If you are experienced and a little spilled water is not an issue, you can replace the valve with a full tank of water. But, make sure the cold water line is closed and there are other open valves. Be ready with your new valve and quickly swap the two valves.

A bit of water will ‘gloog’ out, but it will save about 99 gallons of water and about an hour or more of water draining time. Reassemble all the lines, refill the tank, turn on the gas and test the control valve. Watch the valve through at least one full cycle of heating the tank.

Dear Maintenance Men | December 1, 2009

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Dear Maintenance Men:
I am about to embark on a large construction project on my apartment building. I don’t really understand the mechanic’s lien issues that invariably come with large projects. I am confused as to whom they protect. Just the idea of someone putting a lien on my property is scary. Can you walk me through the process?
Walter


Dear Walter:
This is probably the most misunderstood part of dealing with building contractors. First the mechanic’s lien and other associated liens are there to protect the property owner, the workers, subcontractors and suppliers.

The lien process is there to alert you before the fact that you are entering into a contract to pay for goods and services. When you hire a prime contractor to do work on your home or apartment building, the contractor typically hires laborers and subcontractors to do some of the work. They also purchase supplies and materials to complete the job.

The property owner is ultimately responsible to pay for any labor, subcontractors or materials used on their property. A mechanic's lien is a "hold" against your property that, if unpaid, allows a foreclosure action, forcing the sale of your property.

It is recorded with the County Recorder's office by the unpaid contractor, subcontractor or supplier.

It means that any of these unpaid entities can claim a lien against the property until they are paid. Now all this does seem very scary and it is meant to be taken seriously. The prime contractor has a direct contractual agreement with the property owner.

If the contractor isn't paid, he can sue on the contract and record a mechanic's lien. But subcontractors, workers and suppliers don't have a contract with the property owner.

A problem occurs when the property owner pays the prime contractor for all or some of the work, but the prime contractor fails to pay the laborers, subcontractors and materials suppliers that were hired to do portions of the job.

If they are not paid, often their only recourse is to file a mechanic's lien on the property.

This may appear to be very one sided, but in reality, it gives you the tools to manage your project. It will let you know who will be owed money and under what time frame before, during and after the project’s completion. The best protection to avoid a lien issue is to use a reputable, established contractor.

The best place to find these contractors is through your local apartment association. Hire only licensed contractors and check their license status. Make sure your contractor hires only licensed subcontractors and check their licenses too. Get a list of all subcontractors, laborers and materials suppliers to be used by your prime contractor before the start of the job.

Be sure to read your contract carefully and ask for clarification on any item you do not understand. The contract should include a schedule that demonstrates when specific construction activities will start and end (such as the framing, sheetrock work, or painting) and the projected payments tied to the contract price of these activities.

Stay informed, ask questions and above all use a reputable contractor familiar with our industry. They are worth the money. This article does not have the room to go into all the necessary detail. Be sure to go to the California Contractors State License Board web site for more information: www.cslb.ca.gov.

Dear Maintenance Men | December 1, 2009

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Dear Maintenance Men:
I replaced my toilet only three years ago, but the toilet is not flushing properly. I have replaced the flush valve and the flapper valve. The toilet is still slow to flush. Please help me in solving my dilemma.
Albert


Dear Albert:
You might have any number of issues at play. First, make sure the flapper valve is letting through enough water. If it flops down too soon, be sure the toilet flush handle is not loose or that the chain or line connecting to the rubber flapper is tight enough.

The chain connecting to the flapper should have about an inch of play. You want the flapper to open wide enough to float a few moments before it falls back down and closes off the flush valve. If the flapper is working properly, check that the holes under the rim are not clogged.

If you live in an area with very hard water, calcium may build up in the drain holes under the bowl rim. A partially clogged rim might not allow enough water through the rim to start the vortex motion and slow the evacuation process. Use a stiff toilet brush and a vinegar solution to help remove the calcium buildup under the rim.

Lastly, and as common as the poorly adjusted flapper, is that an item may be lodged in the toilet trap. The items we find most often are small toys, rags, etc. Use a toilet auger to push your way through the trap and clear or pull back any obstructions.

A toilet auger is a special tool that has an offset hand crank, a long sleeve handle and a special auger bit at the end to break through a clog or retrieve an obstruction. The auger bit is connected via a flexible shaft to a crank handle that you control. Its reach is about 3 feet.

Contact AACSC

Apartment Association,

California Southern Cities
333 W. Broadway St., Suite 101
Long Beach, CA 90802
(562) 426-8341

 

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