Dear Maintenance Men

Dear Maintenance Men | March 23, 2009

Print
PDF

Written by AACSC | 25 January 2011

Dear Maintenance Men:

Why does the “upside down cup” on the edge of my kitchen sink leak and squirt water every time the dishwasher is used? George

Dear George:

A quick primer: The “upside down cup” is the dishwasher’s air-gap. Its job is to keep the dirty water the dishwasher discharges from returning back into the dishwasher through the siphon process. The way the dishwasher air-gap works is that water is pumped up to the air-gap at the rim of the sink and the water then falls through an open air cavity and drops by gravity into a larger diameter hose. The larger hose is typically connected to the garbage disposal, which will allow the dishwasher to drain into the sewer system. The reason the air-gap squirts or leaks at the sink rim level is because the drain line leading from the air-gap to the disposal is clogged. The hose may be kinked or food particles from the garbage disposal may have blocked off the hose end. The easiest solution is to remove the section of hose from between the air-gap and the garbage disposal. Clean the hose and remove all debris. Be sure to clean out the connection at the garbage disposal. A small screw driver is perfect for removing any blockage. Reassemble the hose and test. If the problem persists the air-gap may need to be replaced.

Dear Maintenance Men | May 1, 2009

Print
PDF

Written by AACSC | 25 January 2011

Dear Maintenance Men: I have just finished rehabbing a rental unit. I replaced counter tops, cabinets, baseboards and so on. Even though the unit is freshly painted with new carpets, the unit still looks unfin-ished. The base boards don’t always follow the wall contours exactly and the cabinets also have small gaps where they meet the wall. What can I do to make my work look professional? Julia

Dear Julia: We are going to let you in on a “professional” secret and it is called painter’s caulk! Painter’s caulk typically comes in a tube and is applied with a caulking gun. Run a small bead of caulk along the baseboard and with your finger push the caulk between the wall and the gap you are trying to fill. Using a damp sponge or rag, wipe up any excess caulk. Painter’s caulk can be used to hide a multitude of installation sins. Almost anywhere two dissimilar materials meet, painter’s caulk can help hide the transition. Painter’s caulk is not limited to just baseboards, use it to make cabinets and door trim look custom installed. Fill nail holes without making a big flat spot on your wall. If you have ever tried to mate two pieces of trim or coving at a 45 degree angle and your cuts are not quite square, use painter’s caulk and no one will know. All gaps will magically disappear.

Dear Maintenance Men | May 1, 2009

Print
PDF

Written by AACSC | 25 January 2011

Dear Maintenance Men: A building inspector once made me correct a sump pump plumbing line that discharged rainwater into a municipal sewer line. Can you clarify for me the do’s and don’ts of patio drains? Michael

Dear Michael: Great question and one that many people might not think is important. To many, a drain is a drain is a drain and most individuals don’t know where the water drains to and what environmental impact waste water can cause. In urban areas and most municipalities, waste waters are directed to their proper destinations via a sewer drain or a storm drain. As an example: A sewer drain often carries waste water from toilets, kitchens and laundry areas directly to a waste water treatment facility. On the other hand, a storm drain will direct rain water from roofs, driveways and streets, including patio drains, into streams, aquifers or the ocean. The reason for the two different systems is so rain or runoff water does not overwhelm the sewer waste treatment facilities and force the release of untreated raw sewage into the storm systems which, of course, leads to our streams, aquifers and the ocean. Because the storm and sewer drains eventually empty into the environ-ment, contaminants such as oil, paint and other hazardous material must be disposed of properly and not into the drains.

Dear Maintenance Men | May 29, 2009

Print
PDF

Written by AACSC | 25 January 2011

Dear Maintenance Men: I know we are in bad economic times and sometimes people do desperate things to help ends meet. After doing a routine inspection of my building, I noticed a resident had cut a hole in the bedroom wall through to the garage and converted the garage into a living space. I have since evicted this tenant and I am starting my repairs. I want to bring it back to original condition. Can I just slap up some drywall and be done? John

Dear John: We will assume “the hole” the resident cut into the wall was a doorway or an opening of similar size. The issue of repairing or replacing an attached garage wall system is a serious one. Often the importance and proper building code compliance is overlooked. In some cases owners or DIY’s unknowingly create a situation that can be disastrous in the case of fire. Most cities require the use of 5/8” type X gypsum board (drywall) as a firewall. The drywall board should have a one-hour fire rating. Because the garage and living area structures are attached or share the same wall, the drywall must not exceed onequarter inch gaps when installed. There should not be a gap between the footing and the wallboard. This is to insure fire does not breach cracks, crevices or gaps. When installing the wallboard, start from the top of the wall and go down. If your existing wall is lath and plaster, you will need to use one quarter inch furring strips and 5/8” inch drywall. Then mud and tape the joints and texture to suit.

Dear Maintenance Men | May 29, 2009

Print
PDF

Written by AACSC | 25 January 2011

Dear Maintenance Men: I have a light colored carpet that has stains that will not clean out. The carpet is in good condition, so I am reluctant to replace it. Is dyeing a carpet a good alternative to replacement? Phil

Dear Phil: In this economy dyeing carpets is making a strong come back. First you will need to determine what material your carpet is made of. Typical carpet materials are: nylon, olefin, polyester, wool etc. As an example 70% of carpets are nylon, wool can be found in Berber style carpets and olefin is often used in commercial carpets. Polyester is used to a lesser extent because of poor stain resistance qualities. Knowing what your carpet is made of will determine the method of dyeing. In order to hide stains that cannot be completely removed, you will need to dye the carpet a darker color. We would recommend you get two quotes; one for the carpet dyeing and the other for the carpet replacement. On average a typical apartment grade carpet may cost anywhere from $13 to $15 or more a square yard and dyeing may cost anywhere from $9 to $13 a square yard. If the cost to dye the carpet is close to the cost to replace it, we recommend replacement. Other considerations to keep in mind is the condition of your carpet pad, if it is flat or you have runways flattened in your carpet, it would again be best to replace the carpet.

More Articles...

Resources

Advocacy

Contact AACSC

Apartment Association,

California Southern Cities
333 W. Broadway St., Suite 101
Long Beach, CA 90802
(562) 426-8341
 

Who's Online

We have 17 guests online